We start our journey with a long drive from Kathmandu to Jiri, the starting point of our trek. It takes about around eight hours to reach from Kathmandu to Jiri from the highway which is famous for the environment friendly approach adopted during its design, construction and maintenance. The road was constructed by Swiss government few years before. It is said that Jiri looks like Switzerland that why Swiss government offered Swiss cows and cheese factory too. Jirel, one of the unique ethnic groups of Nepal reside here. However, at present we can find Sherpas, Tamang, Chhetris and various other people living together in this village. Jiri is the central village of the area and is one of the major starting points for mountain trek to Mount Everest region. It is in the Hill region where one can go after crossing many ricers and hills. We will spend overnight at one of the lodges of the village.
After breakfast, we leave the beautiful village in order to commence our trek to Deurali, today’s destination. We will be walking in the Everest trail today in between the mountain flanks. After crossing the small ridge, we once look back at the village and then continue our trek through ups and downs. We pass through several small hamlets and descend to the bank of Khimti Khola. There is a suspension bridge which leads us to Shivalaya (1767 m), from where the trail is a steep ascent until we reach Deurali. In Deurali, you can see flapping prayer flags. We spend overnight at one of the lodge of Deurali.
On the following day, we descend along the stream on the side flank for a while. Continuing our walk forward, we cross the wooden bridge by a Bhatti and walk through the steep slope which begins to descend through the woods. In the valley ahead you will soon be overlooking the hamlet of Gholunda and the river Likhu Khola. We keep descending the steep hill until we reach Gholunda. From here, we trek down the path with stone walls through farm fields to the bank of Likhu Khola. After ascending to the upstream we will soon come to Chiddarin which has several houses and a suspension bridge. Upon arrival at Chinbu, the path continues to go zigzagging up. After a while, we enter the forested area where the slope becomes slightly gentler. Now we will see the houses of Sete up ahead. Then we continue through the villages inhabited by Sherpas and have both Nepali and Sherpa names. We stay overnight in lodge.
The day begins with a long but gradual climb to the Lamjura pass at 3530m. There we are rewarded with frost and often snow along the trail in winter or with flowering rhododendrons in the spring. The pass is the highest point between Jiri and Namche Bazaar. Continuing our climb through the rhododendron forest, we reach Dakuchu and then to Goyam where you will have to walk through the stone steps. The ascent continues further from Goyam through the forested slope. From here, we follow the path on the open flank, go through Takuto and trek down along the firm land. We will soon arrive at the edge of the ridge, which commands the view of Junbesi village in the valley and Numbur. A little more descent will bring us down to a village with a Gompa and a chorten. Junbesi has many lodges and you can stay in any one of them.
Today, we will cross the third pass and reach Tragsindo. Leaving the village behind, go down along the Junbesi Khola, cross the river to the left bank using the wooden bridge and climb to the flank on the left. If we continue on the path down along the river, we will come to Phaplu, which has an airfield. Descend from the pass through the woods. We will soon come to a Gompa and will be in the Tragsindo, where there are two or three lodges. Continue walk for approximately two hours to reach Numtala where we will stop for overnight at Lodge.
On this day, we leave Numtala and then continue descending towards Dudh Koshi. The journey goes down quite a distance to the bank of Dudh Koshi and then gradually climbs ascends through several Sherpa villages, terraced fields and forests to Khari Khola. The trail today also has stone steps here and there on the steep flank. The Dudh Koshi can be seen far below and Khumbila (5761 m) soaring up far beyond the valley. The Sherpa regards this as a holy mountain and worship it. The path becomes level and it will soon lead us to Khari Khola village. We will be staying an overnight in a lodge.
After breakfast, we start a day with a climb towards Puiyan through Sherpa villages and a forest inhabited by monkeys, passing through a narrow canyon before arriving at Puiyan. After crossing Khari Khola using the suspension bridge, we climb the mountain flank and pass Kharte. It is Khari-La, the border of the Solu area and the Khumbu area. The level path continues further. Trek around a number of branch ridges that are stretching from the upper right side, and you will reach Puiyan. Then we make lunch there, also following the trail of Surke village.
Leaving Surke village , we will find that the path forks into two. The fork that crosses the bridge is the old path. It travel level on the flank, passes Chauri Kharka, and goes around Lukla. The other fork that goes upstream on the left bank will lead us to Lukla. We will zigzag up the flank on the left and come to the end of the runway. Going further to its upper end and we will be in the Lukla village. Further walking from Lukla, we head towards Phakding. Making the path quite busy with more trekkers, porters and pack animals and few hours of good scenic walk brings us at Phakding for the overnight. We check in to the hotel and explore the surrounding area.
Today’s our trek starts in the morning after breakfast. The walk today is pleasant with few short uphill and downhill with multiple crossings over Dudh Koshi River and magnificent view of Mt. Thamserku (6,608m/21,675ft) from the Benkar village. We cross more bridges and reach entrance of Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, where our trekking permits are checked in order to keep record of trekkers and local trekking staffs as well. A descend and a gradual walk brings us to Jorsale, the last village until Namche Bazaar. The walk is enjoyable through the river bed and we reach Hillary Suspension Bridge. Now, as we climb up hill towards Namche Bazaar, closer and magnificent sight of Kwangde Peak, its sister peaks, Kusum Kanguru, Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Tawache, and many other fabulous mountains will be viewed closely. We stop at Chautara to admire the view. Finally, we reach the colorful village of Namche Bazaar, the main gateway of Khumbu region. We stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Today we will take a rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization. Health experts always recommend us to stay active and moving during the rest days instead of being idle. We either spend the day taking a day hike to Thame or visiting Khunde or relaxing and exploring Namche Bazaar itself. Namche Bazaar is the main centre of the Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. If we trek a few hundred vertical feet during the day, it will help us to properly acclimatize. Our guides will take us to the Tourist Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where we can observe an assortment of things related to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various plant and animal life of the Everest region. We stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Leaving Namche Bazaar, we climb the Khumjung hill and then descend to the east of the village down the broad valley leading to the Dudh Koshi from where the route turns north. There are two trails and our guide will choose the best option for us to follow. There is a chorten on the ridge top at 3,973 meter which descends from Mt. Khumbila (5,761 m). Then we trek northwards and reach Mong (Mohang) which is known as the birth place of the Saint Lama Sanga Dorje, the reincarnation lama of Rongbuk Monastery. This Monastery is believed to have introduced Buddhism in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The trail descends in a series of steep switchbacks down a sandy slope to the Dudh Koshi and enters at Phortse Thanga. Then the trail climbs steeply through rhododendron forests, passing many Kharka on its way to Tongba (3950 m) and Gyele (3960 m) and finally Dole (4200 m).
On the following day, we have to climb uphill in order to reach Machhermo. The trail climbs through a huge rock at Lhabarma (4330 m) and carries on to Luza (4340 m).From Luza the trail continues to climb to Machhermo (4410 m) where we can have good views of the mountains. There is a Chorten right before the Luza village. Throughout today’s journey we will be walking alongside the Dudh Koshi River. Overnight at Machhermo.
We commence our trek by climbing a ridge for a superb view of Kangtega down the valley and also up towards Cho Oyu (8153 m). The narrow valley now begins to widen as the trail passes through Phangkha (4390 m), where an avalanche in 1995 killed 40 people. We then descend to the riverbank before climbing onto the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier on a steep trail. Upon crossing an iron bridge over a stream, the trail levels out as it follows the valley past the first lake, known as Longpongo, at 4690 meter. At this juncture, we get a chance to observe lama footprints on a stone. At the sight of the second lake, Taboche Tsho, we become mesmerized by the shimmering turquoise blue sheet of water sparkling in the sun. Further walk from the second lake, we reach the third lake, the two linked by a surging stream. Gokyo village stands by the third lake and Cho-Oyu Mountain as a backdrop sets an amazing spectacular sight here. After lunch, we explore around the third lake, Dudh Pokhari. Overnight in camp.
Gokyo Ri is the highlight of this trip. Climbing to the top of Gokyo Ri is demanding as it is steep. But the scenery of Gokyo village, on the edge of third lake overlooked by Chola Tse and the broad Ngozumpa Glacier, is magnificent. We are surrounded by panoramic mountains like Kusum Kanguru, Thamserku, Kangtega, Taboche, Chola Tse, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Everest, Chang Tse, and Pumori. The sight of sunrays kissing Everest which towers over all the surrounding peaks is astounding. We trek through the Ngozumpa Glacier to the mountain on the other side. We walk through the Ngozumpa glacier, hearing the sounds of the falling iced rocks into the small glacier lake. Next, traverse along the edge of that mountain and then meander into Thagnag. In sunny days the ice melts and it becomes more difficult to walk. We spend our overnight at Thagnag, a rather more substantial hamlet with a small village.
Today is going to be one of the toughest days of the trip. Today is the toughest day and we need to start early (4-6 am) compared to other days on the trip. The Cho La pass is not itself difficult, but it is steep and involves a glacier traverse on the eastern side. We need to be careful as the trail is vertical and the rocks glazed by ice may cause trouble by making the trail slippery. We climb uphill and reach a glacier traverse on the eastern side that needs to be crossed carefully as there are slippery iced rocks. Upon reaching Cho La Pass, dazzling view of Ama Dablam and Chola Tse is seen. There are chances of rock falling over here as well. We move downwards and little further from Cho La, there lies a danger crevasse, also the path is slippery which makes the crossing a difficult one. Taking in good precaution, by the use of crampons, we move down towards and arrive at Dzongla. From Dzongla, the view of the north face of Chola Tse is awesome again and we stay overnight here.
Today’s walk will be a bit shorter so we have a lot of time to relax and enjoy the beauty that surrounds us. We climb down from Dzongla and transverse through a grassy trail. Enjoying the view of Lobuche Peak we stretch up eventually through a ridge. Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku Taboche are seen looming prominently. Curving round through the wide gravelly river bed, we will be at Lobuche. Upon arrival, we can get refreshed and look around Everest Glacier. Or else we can spend the rest of day taking a rest which will help us prepare for the next day’s long trek. Overnight in Lobuche.
The trail to Gorak Shep goes ahead through the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. We pass through the pyramid sign post. The first part of the walk is rather easy as the weather warms up very fast early in the morning. After about an hour, you have to cross the Kangri Nup Glacier and then the walk becomes constant up and down, probably more ups then downs on the glacial moraine. The path from here can be misleading; hence, it is important that we follow our lead Sherpa diligently. The walk is strenuous due to thin air in the high altitude. We pass through rocky dunes, moraine and streams. Ahead on the trail we see crest of north ridge of Everest along with Mt. Pumori, Mt. Mahalangur, Mt. Lingtern, Mt. Khumbu Tse, Mt. Nuptse, etc. A small ascent would take us to Thangma Riju from where we perceive 360 degree vista of snowy mountains. As we reach Gorak Shep, we will find snow-capped mountains looming all around us including the top of the world – Mt. Everest. Overnight at Gorak Shep.
We’ll wake before dawn today to trek towards Kalapatthar (which means “black rock”) for a fiery, glorious sunrise over Mt. Everest. After climbing for couple hours, we arrive in the famous view point, the top of Kala Patthar. The day’s first light will illuminate your spectacular view of Nuptse Nup, Changtse and Lhotse we have the best view of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Pumori and Ama Dablam along with the entire mountain views of Khumbu Himalayan range. This may be, of the whole journey, our most opportune moment to snap amazing pictures of Everest and its neighboring peaks. Afterwards, we get back to Gorakshep for breakfast and descend down in the direction of Dingbuche, our nighttime stop. Our pace will be a lot brisker as we descend, and the walking is easier going this way.
Today we are leaving imja valley, and following the Dudh koshi River to get Namche Bazar . The trail descends quite considerably today, but some uphills must be tackled! As we approach Namche, the forests and greenery return.
This is a long day of walking, made harder by the hard hiking the day before. But push on because a good dinner and a hot shower await! And now is the opportunity to celebrate your successful trek to Everest Base Camp with a beer!
And with wifi available, now is also time to get in touch with loved ones at home and perhaps upload a few pictures of your trip.
The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk slowly and under control as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries the trail becomes more level and natural. By today we start to get warmed up by the light breeze. Any remaining sore throats and colds will be gone by today as we pass through this charming mountain air. Although we are travelling the same route down, we feel completely different views.
After 3 to 4 hours walk we will reach Lukla. Upon arrival in Lukla, we stretch those sore legs and recall the experiences of the last couple of weeks. We experience the culmination of a fantastic trek on a happy note with everyone back safe and sound with smile on faces! Overnight at Lukla.
Flights to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for morning because wind can create problem to fly the aircraft in the afternoon. But sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other unprecedented reasons that are beyond our control. We fly back to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu we have the rest of the day off to rest or do some souvenir shopping. Overnight in Kathmandu
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