Upper Dolpo Trekking - 25 days

We take an hour-long flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, located in Western Nepal. Our scenic flight over the terraced hillsides and thatched villages of Nepal’s green middle hills takes us to Mahendra Airport in Nepalgunj, the largest city in the western Terai. Nepalgunj, set in the steamy plains of southern Nepal, less than ten kilometers from the border of India, is a jumping-off point for many flights and buses into western Nepal. Nepalgunj, a town near the Nepal-India border, is also the gateway to Simikot, Humla. The town itself is an interesting Terai town that showcases the diverse culture of Nepal. In Nepalgunj, we can visit the local market, mini-zoo and nearby villages. It is quite hot and tropical. Overnight in Nepalgunj.

We’ll be up early for our forty-five minute flight to Juphal (although the exact departure time is determined by the Mahendra airport that morning). Dolpo flights are always scheduled early in the morning. This is because high winds in the Thulo Bheri Valley begin around 10 am, making later flights impossible. We are treated to fantastic views of the great wrinkle of green ridges peppered with small, terraced villages and surrounded by snow-capped peaks from our small Yeti plane as we head north towards Juphal, the main airport of the Dolpo (Dolpa) region. And it’s quite an exciting landing on their small landing strip, built right at the top of the village on a small ridge. Once we arrive at Juphal (2500 m), we start out on the short walk from Juphal to Dunai. Juphal and the surrounding villages, built high above the Thuli Bheri River, are a mix of Hindu and Buddhist inhabitants with many ancient animist and shamanistic elements thrown in, an interesting vignette of the middle hills culture of Nepal. Women wear traditional Nepali dress, sarong-like skirts, and adorn themselves with gold nose-rings and earrings and thick, colorful strands of glass beads. The town is beautifully located over the Himalayan foothills, with views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks to its north. We walk through terraced fields to the Bheri River and its narrow gorge. We continue walking to Dunai, which is the administrative headquarter of the Dolpo region. We explore the small town in the evening and camp there for the night and explore this bustling little hill town for the rest of the afternoon.

On the following day, we leave Dunai and cross a suspension bridge and turn to the west following a trail past a hospital. The trail ascends up the side of the treeless, Thulo Bheri valley before entering Phoksundo river valley. Then after reaching a ridge which is marked by claims at 2,499m which offers grand view of the Kagmara Peak up the valley. We pass through walnut groves at 2,810m, Dhera, a winter settlement where people from higher villages keep herds of cows and goats, however we take the upper trail climbing to Rahagaon, a Thakuri village at 2,900m. Where there is a Gompa dedicated to the local god, Mastha, guardians of this village.Trek leads to a canyon and then heading downhill through deep dark forests to a large stream, finally reaching at Ankhe. Overnight in Ankhe.

Today, we have a very ascending and descending trail along a wooded riverbank and climbs on a steep trail through the forested riverbed. The ups and downs can be a bit monotonous, but there are several streams along the way that offer a chance to cool off. The trail eventually leaves the forests and passes through a grassy slope high above the river. We trek downhill on a trail surrounded by lush forests before reaching a cliff followed by a dizzying drop on a wobbly stone staircase to the river bank. The trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks that form a dyke along the river bank, trek continues upstream to a bridge near Sulighat We continue trekking until we reach Sulighat where we spend the night.

Continuing our journey from Sulighat, we walk along the valley floor to the confluence of the Phoksundo and Pungmo rivers. After crossing a bridge, we walk on the western bank of the Pungmo Khola. The trail passes through a cedar forest before reaching Palam village. The houses here are almost buried in the sandy soil. From here we trek up to a ridge, at an altitude of around 3,350m and enjoy distant views of Phoksundo Lake and a spectacular waterfall, one of the highest in Nepal. After a brief stop here with the great views, our trail descends through birch forests to the upper reaches of the Phoksundo Khola, and then to the picturesque Ringmo village with its mud-plastered chortens and mani walls. From here it is a short walk to the shores of the Phoksundo Lake. The entrance station for Shey Phoksumdo National Park is at the south end of the village. After our park entrance ticket is examined, we may be subjected to a baggage inspection-ostensibly for drugs and stolen art objects. It’s very peculiar formality in this remote locale. Overnight at Phoksundo Lake.

Today will be our first day for acclimatization. It is a well deserved rest day for acclimatization at Phoksundo Lake. During the day we can embark on a short hike to the village of Ringmo and it’s Tibetan Buddhist Monastery. Monastery is worth visiting. During our short walks, we also get a chance to get acquainted with the local culture. This unsteady trail suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the rocks, signals the remoteness of the area we are about to enter. The Dolpo people wear homespun clothing that is sometimes dyed a maroon color and they favor Tibetan-style somba or dhocha (boots with upturned toes) for foot wear. Both men and women often wear religious amulets and strings of coral, amber and turquoise. Overnight at Phoksundo Lake.

Our trail moves around the top western end of the Phoksundo Lake as it contours on a rocky ledge along the lake’s western bank. This unsteady trail suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevasse in the rocks, signals the remoteness of the area we are about to enter. At the westernmost edge of the lake the path leads through a lush meadow that opens up into the flood plain of the Phoksundo Khola. Then we walk through the valley, crossing the river and avoiding the occasional boggy marsh underfoot and then coming on the bank of the river to the overnight camp.

We need to walk a bit more hours today as we have to follow a trail that leads us along the level path through a glacial valley which heads due north. At the confluence of the Phoksundo Khola and another mountain stream, there is an old wooden bridge. From here, we walk towards the north-east. A long climb brings us to a sheep meadow where our trail veers up a steep ravine. A hard climb to the top brings us to yet another valley where we can see the Kang-La pass. We set up our camp near the pass in a place that Peter Matthiessen christened ‘Snowfields Camp’. During our trek today we also get to admire the views of Chhamlang peak 6 (6739m) and peak 7 (6105m). Overnight at camp.

On the following day, we begin our trek to the fabled Shey Gompa and neighboring ‘Crystal Mountain’ (which takes its name from the veins of quartz that traverse its base), the most sacred peak in Dolpo which Dolpo pilgrims circumambulate each July or August, during the full moon, before the yearly grain harvest. The sacred mountain is known as the Kailash of Dolpo; the mythology behind it describes a Tibetan Buddhist lama who battles the fierce local mountain spirit on a snow-lion, perhaps the same lama who founded Shey Gompa.

Our trail begins with a steep trail littered with slate towards the pass. We experience a quite strenuous climb to the top of the pass. Our effort to the top of Kang-la pass leads us to get an excellent views of the large valley dissected by a gushing river, views of the snow-peaks Shey Shikkar and Kang Chunne, both just over 6000 meters, before descending steeply down to the wide valley floor. After a steep rough climb to a crest at 5010 m and another at 4860 m, we begin the descent to the Tar valley. Soon after the route reaches grassy slopes, a side trail leads to Tsakang, a Gompa said to be 800 years that is perched dramatically on the side of a cliff. Next, we walk on a meandering trail along the banks of a river, crossing and re-crossing it several times. There are mud caves lining the hills overlooking the river.  We also pass through meadows where we see grazing yaks, hundreds of sheep and domestic mountain goat (Chyangra). We then pass a long, ancient mani wall and finally spot Shey Gompa and the neighboring village of Shey, a tiny hamlet of eight or so inhabitants. A red chorten marks the entrance to Shey, where we stay for the next one night.

Today is another well-earned rest day for acclimatization. We will spend the day hiking around Shey village which is famous for its ancient pre-Buddhist culture, the Bon Po. This Tibetan village is surrounded by a flat-roofed stone houses, mani walls and impressive chortens surrounded by juniper and larch forests. Shey Gompa was built in 1655 and the monastery is noted for its giant copper with gilded gold statue of a seated Shakyamuni Buddha. The lama of Shey resides at a red hermitage known as Tsakang gompa which is north of Shey. It is rather a retreat than a monastery. Tsakang had been a meditation centre of many famous lamas from Tibet. To the east of the Gompa is Crystal Mountain which is one of the strangest mountains, as its contorted cliffs are laced with quartz and embedded with a rich variety of marine fossils. The Gompa itself is not large, and there are no artifacts or paintings of note inside. Although the building is said to be 800 years old, the wall paintings are relatively recent, probably done in 1970s. The statues on the altar are of Guru Rinpoche, Sakyamuni and Milarepa. The Gompa also houses an ancient Tibetan scroll that describes the myth of Crystal Mountain and Shey gompa. According to the inscription, there is a holy lake in a crater among the mountains that surrounds Shey. When a pilgrim makes nine circumambulations of this lake the water turns milky. A sip of this milk and the pilgrim can see Mt Kailash in the distance. The ones, who don’t need a day of rest, can try to find this lake. In Dolpo the ancient Tibetan way of life combines animism with the teaching of Buddha. Overnight in Shey Gompa.

Commencing the trek from Shey Gompa, we begin the day by following a pleasant trail amidst juniper trees which descends into a grey, stony canyon. Then the path begins to zigzag over bare rocks and coarse eroded soil until it eventually brings us to the top of Saldang-la pass. The subsequent descent towards the north is long and tiring but grazing yaks and sheep, and nomadic tents made from yak hair is a comforting sight. In Namduna Gaun we visit Namgung monastery. The red stone monstery is built against the backdrop of a cliff on the north wall of a gorge. Overnight in Namuda Gaun.

Leaving the village, we climb up a steep slope and begin a long transverse along dusty barren mountains. After 3-4 hours of hard climb, we start to see Saldang Village below us on a plateau high above the Namga Khola stream. It has a picturesque appearance. Saldang is the largest village of the inner Dolpo area. The village stretches for nearly two kilometers on an open slope and consists of five villages having about eighty well-built houses with nearly six hundred people. It is a prosperous village not only agriculturally but also for its strategic location on a trade route to Tibet. Overnight in Saldang.

On the thirteenth day, we take a rest day at Saldang. Saldang consists of five villages having about 80 well built houses with nearly six hundred people living there. Saldang is a prosperous village not only agriculturally but also for its strategic location on a trade route to Tibet. The economy of the region is based on agriculture, animal husbandry and trading. In Dolpo only one crop a year can be grown and this is mainly barley. In some village’s buckwheat, oil seed, potato and radish are also cultivated. Recently the main cliff temple collapsed and the villagers have now built a beautiful new monastery in the village itself.

Another option for the day is to hire horses ($10-$15 per person) for a day-trip to Yanger Gompa, one of the oldest and most important in Dolpo, three or four hours to the north of Saldang along the eastern bank of the river. It’s a beautiful ride along the deep canyon bottom, crossing the Nagon River numerous time, but the saddles are NOT comfortable.

Our trail moves towards northern side from Saldang. We walk further along the Nagon Khola (river) on a wild and barren terrain. With few ups and downs we begin our walk on a fairly gradual path. On the way, we pass through Marang and Ki villages. Next, we cross a tributary of Panzang River and walk towards the east and cross the river again before reaching Yangze gompa which houses an old Bon-Po Monastery. Overnight in Yangze Gompa.

Commencing trek from Yangze, there are two trails that connect to Sibu. In order to save time we will retrace our footprints back towards the path of Saldang village. The trail will be much easier and shorter than the other route. From Saldang, we walk along a river and pass through terraced fields, stupas, chortens, heaps of mani stones and a Chaiba monastery, then pass through the Namdo village, which is also prosperous, with about sixty houses having nearly 400 inhabitants. It stretches for more than 5 km on the high slopes to the left of Nam Khong Khola. The Namdo monastery is located near the river bed. Our journey continues further down the river for another two hours to camp near a small settlement of Sibu.

Leaving Sibu, we walk along the Nam Khong Khola for a while and then pass the caravans with yaks that are moving towards the Tibetan border. After turning east and walking for a while, we arrive at a confluence of two small streams. Then, the steep trail ascends to a grazing area below the Jeng La pass (4,900m/16,072ft). Jeng La pass is a beautiful meadow where we will set our camp and stay for overnight.

Early in the morning, we get up and set forth on today’s trek. After walking about for two long hours we reach to the top of the Jeng La pass from where we get remarkable views of the north face of the Dhaualgiri massif. From here we descend on a rough trail to the Tarap Valley, a fascinating valley with vast plains in high mountains that extends twenty kilometers along Tarap Chu river. We camp close to the monastery at Tokyu.

Leaving Tokyu, we trek downhill on a plain valley. The trail is surrounded with patches of lush grass on both sides of the river which is completely different from other parts of inner Dolpo. There is also a marsh which is a common feature in the Desert Mountains of Tibet and the Ladakh Himalaya. Both the Bon Po and Buddhist sects are practiced in the valley. After a short trek, we reach Dho Tarap. Overnight in Dho Tarap.

On the nineteenth day, we will take rest and stroll in the village of Dho Tarap which is surrounded by an irregular stone wall. Our walks will help us get acquainted with the local culture of the area. At Dho, about 40 houses are divided into three clusters and built in a haphazard way inhabited by few Tibetans and mostly Magars who are a hill tribe of Nepal. While here, we can visit a Buddhist Gompa which is closest to our campsite or we could embark upon a 40-minute walk and visit a Bon Po Gompa. Overnight in Dho Tarap.

Leaving Tarap, our trail descends towards a wide valley which eventually narrows into a gorge. We walk along juniper and wild rose bushes just above the tree line. On our trek we will be able to see herds of blue sheep and by the afternoon, we reach the confluence of the Tarap Chu and the Lang Khola, a stream that joins with Tarap River from further east. We will make our camp on a nice meadow also known as Kamakharka and spend the night.

From Tarap Khola, we continue walking down the gorge of the Tarap River, at times alongside it. During our walk we pass by the local people who will be taking their herds to lower pastures for the winter. This will be one of the most exciting days of this trip as the valley becomes so narrow in a deep gorge that in some places we can jump from one side to another. Sometimes there is no trace of a path and we may have to walk across stone slabs fitted on logs in between the walls which act as a bridge. The gorge also provides unexpected adventure and thrills. At some places, the bridges are either damaged or washed away and we may be forced to cross the icy torrent on foot. Finally, we reach our camping spot beside the Tarap Khola at Khanigaon where we spend the night.

Leaving Khanigaon, we follow a trail that takes us to the village of Lalberi. Our trail then descends into another gorge and continues to follow the river again passing through a lush forest. After reaching Tarakot, we can visit Sandul Gompa which lies about 8 km east of the village at a juncture of Barbung Khola and Tarap Chu. The monastery stands on a hill to the south of Bheri River. Today we camp by the Tarap Chu river about 150 meters below Tarakot, near the police post.  Overnight in Tarakot.

Commencing our trek from Tarakot we pass behind the Bheri River before crossing a bridge near the Lawan village. Our trail will continue alongside the big Bheri Rriver ascending until the Byas Gadi. From here the trail moves towards the west on a relatively easy trail.  We cross the river again near the Lochakhola Gaon and ascend to Dunai for an overnight stay. Today’s trek will mostly be on a wonderful gorge with pine trees. Overnight in Dunai.

At the very last day of our trek, we walk along the Bheri River enjoying the beautiful landscape. On the way, we pass through Dhupichaur and Rupgad villages as well as a temple. We continue trekking via Kalagaonda village and Motipur village before reaching the small airstrip. Overnight in Juphal.

Early in the morning we wake up and transfer to airport to take the earliest flight from Jhupal to kathmandu via Nepalgunj at the same day. we transfer to hotel and make dinner together in Katmandu.