Tsum Valley Trek - 13 days

Driving west of Kathmandu along Prithivi highway begins our journey. We will drive through forested Middle hills with Trishuli river at our right. The first part of our road heads north towards Dhading Besi (Headquarter of Dhading district) and then dirt road drops to cross Ankhu Khola and then leads us northwest to Arughat on the Budi Gandaki. Budi Gandaki drains the Manaslu – Tsum region. The dirt road winds upwards towards the Gola Bhanjyang where panoramic views of the southern slopes of the Ganesh, Boudha and Manaslu Himal can be visible. We pass through the hydro- electric power plant, terraces, numerous villages, green hills, some pretty waterfalls, fields of rice and millet to Mangaltar, and through lush green forests we arrive at Shanti Bazar. Descending to a high, cascading waterfall makes a long steep slog up a ridge to Kuerepani, from here the trail descends to Soti Khola. WE stay overnight at Soti Khola.

Today, we embark trek from Soti Khola after breakfast. The trail gradually rises through Sal forest undulating over forested and terraced ridges passing through two tropical waterfalls on a steep, rocky trail clinging to the side of a cliff. The trail is generally narrow, at times clinging to the sides of cliffs. Then we descend down eventually passing through few rice terraces up to Gurung village of Labubesi (885m/2,800ft). Then we climb behind a rocky outcrop, where the valley opens and the Budi Gandaki meanders among wide gravel bars. Dropping to the sandy river bed and walking along rounded stones before climbing over a side ridge. Heading down again to the river and traversing to Machha Khola village. We spend today’s overnight at Machha Khola.

On the following day, we walk through a narrow trail which makes minor ascend and descend. After crossing Thado Khola, we follow a rocky ravine in order to reach Khorlabesi. Continuing our walk, we reach Tatopani where we can find a small trailside hot spring. From Hot spring we climb over another ridge, to cross the Budi Gandaki on a suspension bridge.  Then we climb on a wide, well-crafted staircase, then across a landslide and over a ridge to Doban. Before climbing a rugged trail to Duman, we cross suspension bridge over Doban Khola. Ascending up again to the Budi Gandaki, we reach at Yaru Khola. Here also, we have to cross a suspension bridge and climb the stone stairs and then drop to the river and again climb more stone stairs to Thado Bharyang. Further, we cross the west bank of the Budi Gandaki and climb over a ridge trekking along the river and climbing towards the village of Jagat. We stay overnight at Jagat.

In Jagat, we have to complete ACAP procedure. In the early part of our trek, we ascend over a rocky ridge to Salleri and then descend down to Sirdibas through flat level path. The valley widens a bit as the trail continues up to Ghatta Khola. Continue upstream to a long simple hanging bridge and climb up to Philim.  Philim is a big village mainly inhabited by the Gurungs. Philim valley is well known for Japanese made school and police station. Walk past Philim to the north across a forest with the views of the narrowing valley we reach Chisopani. We stay overnight at Chisopani.

Leaving Chisopani, we cross the gorge and walk for about half an hour which offers with a view of big and beautiful waterfall. This day is challenging as it is an ascending path that stretches on almost the entire route. Entering through the pine and rhododendron tree forest, we descend down to the trail which leads us to Tsum Valley.  En route, you can see the panoramic views of Mountains. Continuing our walk, we pass through a small beautiful village called Lokpa. It is along the old trial route. From Lokpa, we have to descend down for half an hour up to Lungwa Khola and then climb on a zigzag trail for further two hours north through pines and rhododendrons until we reach Gumlung. After crossing the Siyar Khola, we finally arrive at Chumling. It is the lower Tsum valley. Chumling is located on the south face of the Shingri Himal from where we can see an eye catching view of Shringi Himal. You can also visit the old Chumling Gompa, and the stone streets of the village.

After breakfast at Chumling, we carry out our walk towards Chokhangparo by crossing the suspension bridge on the opposite bank of the river. The scenic views of the valley and views of Ganesh Himal amply compensates today’s walk. Then we traverse through rich farming land of maize and potatoes. The houses are classic Tibetan with barricades of firewood on the roof, but without flat roofs as it rains and snows here. Cross a huge slip where rocks and flood cleared the area even up onto the opposite bank, killing five in 1999, but is now covered with a forest of new trees. Up the valley to the east are superb views of several of the 7000-7400m Ganesh Himal, of long suspension bridges on the opposite bank, and far above the perched village of Ripchet (2468m). Passing through Rainjam and crossing Serpu Khola we climb for over two hours on well-graded but exposed track to upper Tsum and the join villages of Chokhangparo, stone houses with a few iron roofs nestled under cliffs. Chokhangparo is situated on a flat land and consists of 2 settlements, Chokhang and Paro. If the weather permits, enjoy the views of Himalchuli (7893m) and Ganesh Himal (7140m). Some households practice polyandry down here. This area is prominent for its Tibetan Buddhist heritage. We stay overnight at Chokhangparo.

Ascending from Chokhangparo, you might get symptoms of Altitude sickness. So, we recommend you to take precaution for it and drink plenty of water in order to keep yourself hydrated. We head east through small villages and pass a local school. The magnificent view here pauses our trekking and stop for the honor of the amazing nature. Gradually climbing over a ridge of chortens, we pass Lama Gaon (3202m) through the flat fields, looking across the extensive crops and river to the huge courtyard of the Rachen Gompa/ Nunnery Gompa (3240m) with excellent pilgrim accommodation. Thar are often sighted near here. The friendly people speak Tsumba, related to Tibetan, but often little Nepali and are quite unused to visitors. We can also make a small visit and then cross the Shiyar Khola, pass through hamlets of Phurbe (3251m) and Pangdun (3258m) and pass an unusual round stupa before reaching the larger village of Chhule (3347m) through an impressive entrance gate. Then we continue walking through the well managed villages Lar (micro hydro power), Phurbe and Pangdun. We leave old historic Stupa of Bhudda in a way crossing the village of Chhule. The children here all wear the Tibetan dressing gown called chubas and there are many yaks. Heading upstream to cross the bridge and climb to Nile (pronounced Nee-lay). Nile is the last village heading north in the upper Tsum valley. This area is massively deforested. This village is situated on the banks of the Shiar Khola and it consists of large number of households. Both villages are in traditional style with inclusion of livestock compounds into the houses and sheltered verandahs for drying crops. We stay overnight at Nile.

We have a very short and pleasant walk today. We walk to the west bank of the valley through the Tibetan landscapes. We are now almost close to the Tibetan border. After about three hours of walk from Nile we reach Mu Gompa through dry Tibetan country, with rows of chortens and widening mountain vistas. Mu Gompa is a very old monastery with over 100 monks and there are no village establishments here. Mu Gompa is the largest monastery in the region. It is located at the highest and farthest point in the Tsum valley. In an ancient period, this Gompa was visited by David Snellgrove (Himalayan Pilgrimage) in 1956. This trail is used to import and export things to and from Tibet. You may come across several yak trains supplying goods to local villages. As we have enough time left after arrival, we can explore around the Mu Gompa. We can also visit the monastery, Dhephu Doma Gompa. The isolated 600 year-old Dhephu Doma Gompa (3900m) is 30 to 45 minutes uphill on the obvious westward track and has two resident nuns who report seeing snow leopards and musk deer and may give you tea. The inside of the Gompa has been repainted by monks from Tibet and there are some ancient Thanka.Or taking a half day walk to the Nunnery and to a small pond a big further up to Nunnery is also a good option. From Mu Gompa there are extensive seasonal yak pastures in all directions, the Lungdang Glacier to the east and high peaks in all directions. After exploring the Mu Gompa area, you may also consider the option of getting to the base of Pika Himal (4865m).

Continue trekking watching the greenery of nature and descend down to Chhokang Paro again. From their continue descending to Gho. Descending further, we arrive at the bridge over the Sarpu Khola. Trekking along the lower Tsum Valley takes you to again Chumling.

After breakfast, we leave Chumling and continue our walk. We move ahead on a flat trail and reach Lokpa. En route you can also enjoy the view of Samba Falls. After a walk for about seven hours, you reach Philim. There you can see the trail which leads to the Ganesh Himal Base Camp. From Philim, we can observe an excellent view of landscape and village itself is live. We spend overnight at one of the lodge in Philim.

Trek starts today from Philim to Khorlabesi via Jagat and Tatopani.  Descend down to Sirdibas and we finally reach to Jagat. Further descend takes us to Yaruphant. The arid Tibetan climate now gives way to subtropical green vegetation. Continue trekking to Dobhan. Finally arrive at Tatopani. There is a hot spring at Tatopani. If interested, you may dip yourself in the hot spring and relax your tired muscles by soaking yourself in the hot spring. If not continue walking up and down from Tatopani to reach Khorlabesi, our rest place for the day.

On a completely descending path. You leave the cultivated region around Philim as you descend along the path that follows the banks of the Budi Gandaki River. At Tatopani  ( Natural Hot spring) you can relax in the warm and revitalize waters of the hot spring. Stay overnight in camp in Khorlabeshi.

We cross the Thado Khola following a rocky ravine. Then we descend down to the river and traverse through Machha Khola village. We walk along the Budi Gandaki River to reach to Gurung village of Labubesi. Passing through two waterfalls on a steep rocky trail on the side of a cliff we reach Khursane. You can enjoy the pristine beauty of the waterfalls on both sides of the river.  Walking along the ridge above Budi Gandaki and crossing the Sal forests, we continue our walk and finally, cross the bridge to arrive at Soti Khola where we will spend our overnight.

On the final day of the trek, we have to walk for about four hours in order to reach Arughat. In the early part of the trail, we climb up the ridge of Kyorpani and then descend down to the cascading waterfall. Then we cross the bridges over Arkhet Khola and cultivated areas, Budi Gandaki Valley, Maltar forest and finally passing by the hydroelectric plant following the stone street before reaching Arughat. While you reach Arughat, our vehicle will be waiting for your pickup. Then you will be driven to Kathmandu which takes about 8 to 9 hours along the Prithivi highway. Marshyangdi and Trishuli River will be on your side throughout the drive with splendid views of green hills, mountains, farming terraces and villages. Then you head up to Dhading Besi and Malekhu which is famous for delicious fish. After your arrival at Kathmandu, you will be transferred to hotel.